Consistency & Persistence Pays Off When Training Your Dog


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Consistency & Persistence Pays Off When Training Your Dog

If the rules change from day to day, the dog becomes confused. He needs to
know how to consistently earn reward and avoid punishment or he will give up
responding. The good trainer is consistent and always uses the same command
for the same behavior. Most dog owners teach the dog that the command
"down" means to be in a prone position. Unfortunately, many dog owners use
the same command to mean, lie down, remove thyself from the couch or bed, or
stop jumping on people. When a command has many different meanings, the
word ceases to have an important message.

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Give each behavior its own command. The command "off" can be used to mean
paws on the floor, and "down" may remain to define the prone position. After you
decide on consistent commands, the next step is to be persistent in using them.
Dogs are naturally good at persistent behavior, and even better if rewarded for it.
Many a dog owner has given up trying to correct the dog that barks all day or
jumps on people. Dog owners drop out of obedience classes all the time
because they are worn down by their dogs' seemingly persistent behaviors, and
they give up trying to teach their dogs new behaviors. The key is that the owners
gave up, and the dogs learned that persistence pays off. When an owner gives
in, the dog's persistent behavior is strengthened and reinforced. Any determined
dog owner can wear the dog down. Therefore, it is extremely important that you
be more persistent than the dog about continuing the training process until the
dog performs the desired behavior.

The dog must learn that the energy he spends engaging in undesirable behavior
is not worth the effort, because you will persist. If you correct him for jumping up
the first four times and don't correct him for the fifth jump up you simply teach him
to jump up five times for the payoff. Similarly, if you correct the dog for barking at
the moon sometimes and not at other times, you teach him that sometimes
barking is acceptable and sometimes it is not. The dog will continue to bark to
determine when barking is acceptable and when it is not acceptable.

Consequently, correcting barking sometimes actually encourages even more
barking. If you don't correct the dog for barking in the backyard because you are
not at home, he will learn that barking is acceptable when you're away. If you
sneak out of the house so as not to cue him that it is acceptable to bark, he only
needs to bark twice with no correction to figure out that you are not at home. A
behavior will be extinguished or changed only if you persist in correcting the dog
every time he misbehaves.

Using Caution When Dealing With Fighting Problems


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Using Caution When Dealing With Fighting Problems

What is in the dog's mind when it attacks every dog it meets or just has one
enemy around the corner? Most of it is show of strength, very often a cowardly
show of strength aimed at other people's toy dogs who can't answer a bully back.
Face that same bully with a big dog likely to answer back and it will disappear
into the distance, for the dog knows who will be boss even in its own race, and if
it senses superiority of physique or brain, it will automatically be subservient.

That is why young dogs lie on their backs, all four feet in the air, when they meet
an older or stronger dog; they know who is boss and are showing the other dog
so by exposing the tummy to an enemy. That is why dog owners should know
that this trick is not a nice one really and should be checked at an early age, for it
is purely one of a weak animal giving in to one stronger in mind and usually an
enemy at that.
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Few owners would like to think their dogs look upon them as enemies, but that is
the case. When a dog no longer looks upon you as a potential enemy it stops this lying on its back as protection, although many dogs in later life do it because
their owners have scratched their chests, which they like, and they hope for it
again. But primarily it belongs to the defense mechanism of the dog tribe. The
mind of a dog that fights always has at the back of it the wish to be the boss of
the tribe, and he fights other male dogs who are sexually mature to make sure
there is no risk of his being questioned as "lord of all he surveys." Muzzle that
dog and let him loose with the dog he has previously fought and nine times out of
ten he will realize he is at a disadvantage and show no signs of aggression.

That is why dogs with fighting problems should be muzzled and then freed with
trained dogs or non-fighters. They then learn to enjoy themselves in a
community and the wish to fight goes away. Often, having muzzled, introduced
and trained them for a short time together, formerly bad fighters are lying side by
side without muzzles after a few minutes.

Your own personality needs to be strong to deal with fighters, because fighters
are usually adult dogs. Few puppies fight, few females fight; therefore your mind
must be stronger than that of the potential fighter so that you are the boss, not
either of the dogs. If the dog is sex-mad you can do nothing but neuter it.
Muzzling is only a stopgap, not a cure. Owners who won't have their fighting
dogs neutered should always have them muzzled in public places.

Dog Aggression Toward Its Owners


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Dog Aggression Toward Its Owners

A dog that growls at and/or bites its owner does so for some reason, even if the
behavior appears "unreasonable" to the owner. A complete medical
examination, including tests for hormonal balance, neurophysiologic function and
allergies, may reveal the underlying cause.

This has been especially helpful in dogs that have swings in mood. When
growling or biting has erupted as a consequence of scolding or punishment for
such behavior as chewing, jumping, general unruliness, or overprotection of food,
these problems must be treated at the same time the program to correct
aggression is initiated.

http://www.havehappydogs.com/wp-includes/images/dog_aggression.jpg

The Owner's Actions Owners must understand that their dog growls or bites at
them as a result of defensive feelings. Even the dog that growls when ordered
off the couch is reacting defensively, as it feels its dominance status has been
threatened. If scolding and punishment provoke aggression, the dog is reacting
to a perceived threat to its physical safety. In either of these situations, the
owner's threatening behavior is producing negative results.

How To End Your Dog's Food Begging


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How To End Your Dog's Food Begging

Begging usually becomes a habit if you feed the dog from the table when he
begs. He won't leave the table if he's reinforced for staying with tidbits.ഊCommand the dog to "settle" at the table and enforce it. He'll tire of staring up
and will soon fall asleep if you don't reward him for begging. If you give the dog a
scrap from the table, give it only when he's in a settle position.
Some dogs are just born optimistic, and even though they have never received
food from the table, they plant themselves at the table, hoping something will fall
their way. Dropped food is a good beggar reinforcement, especially if you have a
child who likes to make a game of dropping food on purpose. You may choose
to train the dog to settle or down-stay in another room or at a distance from the
table.
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The dog must never bite the hand that feeds. To make sure that he doesn't,
teach him the command "easy." Offer him a treat by holding the treat in your
thumb and index finger keeping your palm toward your body and your knuckles
facing the dog. If the dog grabs for the treat, give him a very loud and firm
command by saying "Easy". After a few rounds of this practice, he will generally
take the food from your hand gently.

http://www.doodlicious.com/images/bhindi-begging.jpg

Discipline Your Dog Instead Of Punishing Him


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Discipline Your Dog Instead Of Punishing Him

Too often, dogs do not understand why they are receiving punishment or which
behavior produced the punishment. Dog owners attribute unrealistic reasoning
abilities far beyond the animal's mental capacity. The owner may believe the dog
knew what he was doing wrong because he had the "guilty" look on his face
when the owner yelled, "WHAT IS THIS ON THE FLOOR!" while pointing to a
mess. The belief that the dog knew better incites the owner to severely punish
him despite the fact that the destruction occurred several hours before the owner
got home. The dog connects the punishment with the owner coming home, not
with the misbehavior that took place several hours ago. The next day, the owner
is prepared to find a mess, and the first thing he or she does upon arriving home
is search the house for evidence of dog damage.

The posture of an owner searching for a pile of unmentionables is not at all
friendly and loving. The owner's hunched over shoulders and wiggling nose,
searching for a mess, make the person look mean and contorted. The verbal
greeting may go something like, "So what did you destroy today?" The "guilty"
look is the dog's response to the owner's weird behavior.

http://images.meredith.com/bhg/images/2007/10/p_PetCrateSoft.jpg

The dog is remembering previous inexplicable punishment. In his mind, greeting
the owner at the door will result to punishment. The dog forgot about the mess
that he made hours ago. Punishing your pet long after the crime has been
committed, rather than during or immediately after the act, has no purpose other
than to confuse or make the dog fearful. Many owners report that they do not
even suspect a problem when they walk in the door, and yet the dog still looks
guilty. Maybe there have been enough messes for the dog to realize that a mess
on the floor is a good indication that a correction is approaching when the owner
gets home. However, the dog simply does not have the ability to connect that refraining from chewing at noon will prevent a punishment at 5:30 pm.

There is no evidence to suggest that dogs deliberately misbehave to make their
owners angry. Dogs misbehave because they were not taught proper behavior,
or they are bored, frustrated, and anxious, to name a few reasons. Dogs chew,
bark, etc., to satisfy their immediate needs and emotions, not to spite their
owners. Dogs want to please their owners and not spite them.

Should Face Licking Be Encouraged?


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Should Face Licking Be Encouraged?

Dog caresses and shows affection by licking; it is his way of showing love and
appreciation for the person he does it to. But face licking should be encouraged and needs to be stopped. If he is stopped from doing this as a small puppy, he
will learn to lay his face against his owner's cheek without the licking.
Licking, after all, can be a cause of infection to owners in rare cases, and not all
dogs live a completely clean life. Most of them drink water from the toilet, eat
manure, and lick their behinds which not only their own but those of other dogs
that might not be as healthy as yours. Therefore you should train your dogs the
command "No Lick" to be followed by a kiss behind their ears and then have their
chests very slowly and gently scratched.

http://vetnetwork.net/pca/articles/news/images/girl_licked_bydog.jpg

So many dog owners rub their dogs when praising them, which makes most dogs
bad-tempered. Rubbing the hair the wrong way is particularly obnoxious to a
dog, whereas the gentle smoothing of the hair on the chest or on the rump is
particularly pleasing to them. They love being scratched on top of the tail
because it is an area of pleasure. In addition, there are other areas of pleasure;
behind the ears, under the lower jaw, on the ribs behind the front legs, on the
tummy and especially between the front legs. Dog owners must find out which
pleases each individual dog best and keep that pleasure for a reward, as well as
to please the dog.

If you notice that your dog is excessively licking their bodies, this could a sign
that may indicate an allergy, constipation or a skin disease. Some people think
that dogs wash themselves like cats; well, they do not. Sometimes when dogs
get their paws wet, you will see them licking that area to dry, just as a female dog
licks her puppies to clean and dry them. Dogs should be allowed to lick the hand
because hands can easily be washed before touching food. However, generally
speaking, licking should be avoided and stopped at an early age.

Incessant Barking: Part 1


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Incessant Barking: Part 1

What does it mean when a dog barks? The bark is the dog's word, and it can
mean many things. Your dog barks when he is alerting you to an intruder, when
he is afraid, when he is playful, and when he is bored. Barking is caused by the
presence of stimuli such as strange people, dogs, sights or sounds, the owner's
absence, or as an attention seeking mechanism.

The easiest way to control barking is to socialize your dog to make him
comfortable around people, places and things and to instill in him a strong chew
toy habit so that he is mentally and physically exercised and occupied. However,
just as you would not attempt to completely silence a person, you should not try
to completely stop your dog from barking. Your dog just needs to learn some
basic bark control such as when to bark and for how long. Regardless of the
reason for your dog barking, your goal is to properly socialize him, to teach him
to focus on something other than barking, and to teach him to speak and be quiet
on command so you can control when and for how long he barks.
http://www.cityoffortwayne.org/images/stories/animal_control/Pet%20Care%20Articles%20-%20pics/barking%20dog.jpg
Alarm Barker: Dogs who bark at the presence of intruders can be a valuable
asset. It is very ironic that barking dogs are now such a problem in our society
when it is also considered as an alarm. Actually, barking is believed to be one of
the main reasons we domesticated dogs in the first place and one of the reasons
we live with dogs today. Usually, it is not the barking that is a problem, just that
the dog is a little too enthusiastic. Most people want their dogs to let them know
when someone has stepped onto the property. Barking only becomes a problem
if the dog does not settle afterwards.

Teach your dog to bark and be quiet on cue; thereby having an on/off switch. To
implement this training, invite three friends to come over for a speak-and-shush
party, and within half an hour you will have a well- trained barker. Have your
dog's treat on hand. Next, instruct your visitors to knock on the door and reward
your dog by saying "thank you", followed by a treat when he barks. Your dog
may look a bit shocked for a moment. After all, he is probably used to being
yelled at when he barks. Then, to get him to be quiet, say "shush,” and waggle a
piece of treat in front of his nose. Once he sniffs the food, he will be quiet and so
give him the treat as a reward. Repeat this many times, and your dog will
become increasingly aware of how much fun it is to speak on request and how
rewarding it is to shush on request.

When Your Dog Runs Away


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When Your Dog Runs Away

A dog that runs away from home has somewhere to go. It is quite amazing that
in most cases the owners cannot tell where their dog goes. The usual answer is,
"Just out in the neighborhood to see the other dogs or something." These dogs
have a definite objective in mind and usually cover the same route during each
journey. Why is that route or objectives more appealing than his home
environment? It must be that his environment is lacking in some respect. The
root of the problem usually lies with the owner. The dog is often either over-
dependent or is not in a subordinate position in relation to the owner. All
corrective procedures must start with the relationship between dog and owner,
except when minor external environmental adjustments are needed, such as
gaining a misguided neighbor's cooperation to stop feeding the dog when he
comes around.

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The relationship between dog and his owner must always be considered first
when solving a runaway problem. When the dog is over-dependent or too
independent, he must be taught, without physical manipulation, to Come, Sit and
Stay on command. The owner must make a general environmental adjustment and avoid all fondling or other stimulus-response situations that subordinate the
owner to the dog's whims. For example, a dog that nudges for petting, food
tidbits, or to be let outside must be given some simple command, and then told
"Good dog" and petted briefly when he obeys. The pet should then be ignored
while the owner continues whatever activity was interrupted by the dog's
solicitation.

This helps reorient the dog to his owner's control and reverses the leadership position. Combined with daily training sessions and other corrective measures, this procedure produces results within one and three weeks.

Owners who allow their dogs to roam free in the neighborhood are contributing to
the runaway problem, and should be made aware of the dangers related to this
practice. The pet's safety and health are at risk because of poisoning, road
accidents, fighting, and diseases contracted from other animals. The animal may
become lost, picked up by animal control officers or stolen. What is seldom
considered also is that the owner may be subjected to civil suit or criminal
charges if the wandering pet causes destruction of property, including fights with
other dogs, or human injury.

If an owner cannot appreciate the folly of allowing a pet to roam, any attempt at
teaching the animal to behave at home is wasted. When the dog has been
taught to accept the confines of his own property, the problem of running away is
solved, and such associated problems as dashing in or out of doors, jumping
fences, and other escape behavior can be dealt with effectively.

Incessant Barking: Part 2


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Incessant Barking: Part 2

In the wild, dogs have their own method of going about things their way. But if
you want your dog to be a well-behaved pet and to live in your home with you,
you must teach him the human way of living. Specifically, you have to teach your
dog to redirect his normal and natural dog behaviors. Failing to learn where to
relieve himself, what to chew, when to bark, when to jump up and where to dig
are the top reasons why the relationship fails and people give up their dogs.
Fortunately, these techniques are so simple to teach that you and your dog are
guaranteed to have a long and happy life together.

Yard Barker: Barking dogs are one of the most common complaints of urban and
suburban neighbors. A dog that is left outside will alert to all the visual and
auditory stimuli. Dogs are usually relegated to the yard because they are not
house trained or chew toy trained. If that is the case, you need to housetrain and
chew toy train your dog. Take him out from the backyard and bring him into your
home! Giving your dog a few well-stuffed chew toys is the easiest and most
effective solution. This way he has something to think about other than barking.
A well-stuffed chew toy will keep your dog busy for a while (this means no time
for barking). If you need to, put his food bowl away and only feed him from his
chew toys. This way, you will keep him very busy!

Attention Seeking Barker: When you are relaxed and in a good mood, tie your
dog to a secure spot in the house. Stand or sit next to your dog and ignore him.
When he barks, move away. When he stops, even for just a moment, move
closer. Your dog will soon realize that barking means you leave and quiet means
you return. When he is quiet for 10 to 15 seconds, approach and praise him
followed by a treat.

Owner-Absent Barker: What if your dog barks because he is bored and stressed
when left at home alone? Unfortunately, our canine friends are often left alone
for long periods of time. Being social animals, it is tough for dogs to understand
why their family leaves them. However, you can teach your dog to tolerate and
even enjoy your absence. First, teach your dog to spend time alone when you
are home. Most dog owners make the mistake of spending all the time they are
home with their dog at their side. While this may seem to be a kind and loving
act, it only serves to make matters worse. Your dog will become used to
constant companionship and be more likely to fall apart when you leave.
Instead, teach your dog to enjoy quiet moments by himself while you are home,
so he will feel more confident when you are not there. Frequently and for short
periods of time, confine your dog to another room, his crate or on a tie-down and
give him a well-stuffed chew toy to occupy his time.

What If My Dog Refuses To Walk On A Leash?


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What If My Dog Refuses To Walk On A Leash?

Nothing will make your dog want to move away from you more than jerking the
leash and dragging him. If your dog lags, be careful not to reinforce this behavior
by giving him attention when he stops. Instead, stand still facing away from your dog and put gentle pressure on the leash and wait. Praise your dog if he moves
even one inch to come towards you. Alternatively, go to the end of the leash and
kneel down facing away from your dog and wait for your dog to come to you,
praising him all the way.
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It does not matter how long it takes for him to start walking, (although it should
not be more than a minute or two), he eventually will. Then, walk another few
feet away and repeat if he stops. If your dog is afraid of leash walking, you will
need to take him out for numerous confidence building training sessions on
leash. You do not want to take him with you on an errand when you may be in a
hurry and get frustrated with your dog. Once you have taken the time to teach
your dog to enjoy leash walking, he can come along with you on all your errands.

Does Your Dog Have Problems With Fighting Other Dogs?


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Does Your Dog Have Problems With Fighting Other Dogs?

Dogs that have severe fighting problems with other dogs are the ones that cause
their owners the most worry. It is this vice that many owners hope a psychiatrist
will be able to probe and cure, but since this is the process of investigating into
the past of a dog's mind, which cannot be probed because the dog cannot
answer questions, no progress can be made with psychiatry.

That does not mean we cannot understand a dog's present state of mind.
Although past events might have had disastrous effects on the dog and might
have affected his mind and emotional makeup, it would have to be the owner
who is psychoanalyzed to find the answer to the dog's problems. But because
few owners would have the nerve or sense to go to a human doctor to find out
why their dogs fight, I think we can leave out this subject too.

http://news.cnet.com/i/bto/20070723/dogs-fighting.jpg

A dog fights for several reasons, usually the right to survive, whether this be
taken as the right to eat and live peaceably or simply that the dog wants to live
up to a certain standard whereby he has no enemies or neighbors that irritate
him. We do not know which motive fits each individual case. What we do know
is that dogs pretend to fight in play, mauling each other in a rough and tumble
which nobody minds. Puppies have mock fights all the time to strengthen their
limbs and develop their jaws and to wear off their superabundance of energy, but
the subject we are looking at here is serious dog fighting, which is dangerous for
dogs and humans and has been known to end in death for the smaller and
weaker dog.

Even if the fight is not so bad as to end in death it can cause the owner of a dog
to have a heart attack from fear or people can be bitten. It is most unpleasant
and terrifying, to say the least. Most people don't realize it takes only a minute
for two dogs to get really to grips, before that they are playing for a hold.
Therefore, when you go to separate a dogfight, there is no need to rush in and be
bitten. It is far safer to watch at close range until you can safely get a hold of a
collar or of the loose skin between the eyes of the dog.Once a dog has got a hold on another dog, it is unlikely that he will turn around and bite you for to do so he would have to release the other dog.

You are reasonably safe when it has got a hold in slipping a lead on or grabbing the
choke chain or scruff. It is generally useless beating the dogs in a dogfight; they
would be mentally unaware of pain at that moment, and unless you knocked
either dog out you would not separate them once either had a real hold.

Helping A Battered Dog Gain Confidence By Using Nonphysical Methods


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Helping A Battered Dog Gain Confidence By Using Nonphysical Methods

A dog that has been over-punished lacks self-confidence. Therefore, such dogs
should be allowed to succeed. This is fortunately a simple process with dogs.
They are dramatically quick to learn from people when taught by nonphysical
methods. Even a simple 3-part exercise, performed daily, can bring about a
behavior change in a few days. All that is needed is to crouch down, say "Rover,
come," and heartily praise when it responds, even if it only looks at the owner. If
the pet urinates on the way, the praise must be continued. The wetting usually
disappears as confidence improves. When the dog comes all the way, it should
be petted, preferably on the throat and chest to eliminate fear responses that
may be caused by hands over or on top of its head. Most shy dogs usually come
readily to a crouching figure.

The "Sit" command is simple, once the pet comes dependably. A hand is held
up over the dog's rump as the words "Rover, sit" are spoken. The dog usually
looks upward, and should be praised by happily saying "Good, sit," but without
bending down or petting. If this is patiently repeated a few times, most dogs will
sit down. The spoken praise should be followed by petting. It is important not to
bend over from the waist to pet shy dogs, as this movement often signals
possible punishment. Crouching avoids bending over, and is friendly and
reassuring. Pushing down on its rump, holding, or otherwise manipulating the
pet must be avoided. Physical force is at the root of most submissive behavior
and interferes with effective learning.

The second part of therapy requires that owners avoid punishing the pet. If other
behavior problems exist, these must be resolved using nonphysical methods and
as light as possible. Self-control is a major challenge to most dog owners;
however, after they see the progress usually achieved in a few days, their
feelings that the pet "needs to be told it has done wrong" usually crop up. Any
backsliding on the owner's part is quickly reflected by regression in the dog. This
feedback provides an effective control mechanism to which most owners are
highly sensitive.
http://ihasahotdog.files.wordpress.com/2008/06/funny-dog-pictures-human-is-punished-via-bite1.jpg
A third step in correction is used for dogs that respond submissively to persons
outside the family. If a few friends are gathered to reinforce the owner's
teachings, the dog usually responds satisfactorily. Correction in most cases
requires only a few minutes on 2 or 3 occasions. Older dogs with a persistent
problem may require longer training periods. This approach to correct overly submissive behavior in shy dogs assumes the pet is healthy, so that no possible
organic influence interferes with the learning capabilities of the animal. Total
rehabilitation can be expected in 6 weeks when the process is carried out daily.

Training Your Dog To Rid His Possession Of Dog Bones


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Training Your Dog To Rid His Possession Of Dog Bones

Training your dog to give over or drop objects such as bones and toys can
prevent him from becoming aggressive over what he perceives as his
possessions. You may want to take the attitude that everything you give the dog
is on loan. Out of the goodness of your heart you either share or loan the dog
food, bones or toys. When you want the items back, the dog must give them up
without a bite.

To train the dog to give up a really delectable bone, condition him to give up
other, less desirable objects first. To begin with, attach his leash or handle so
that he can't get away. Start with a new toy, or a toy that only generates mild
interest. Offer it to him, and after he takes it, immediately command him to
"give". Offer him a very tasty treat such as cheese, liver, hot dog, or steak in
exchange for the toy. Most dogs will give up the toy and take the treat. If he
doesn't, take the toy out of his mouth.

http://www.fabricattic.com/Dog%20Bones%20brown%20T080431.jpg

If he growls, a good shake correction is in order. The theory is that the dog learns that a growl elicits a shake correction, and release of the object results in a treat. Practice the training frequently, gradually working up to objects of higher value for the dog, ending with the bone.
If you give the dog bones to chew on, they should only be knuckle bones.

Knuckle bones do not splinter, and the large bone is too big for the dog to
swallow. Other meat bones or their splinters can cause damage. Give your dog
rawhides only under supervision because dogs have been known to swallow and
choke on them. As the rawhide softened from chewing, your dog may try to
swallow it whole, and it could get caught in his throat.

There are many shapes of rawhides to choose from and most dogs tend to only
choke on the square or round chews. Most dogs seem to do much better with
the rectangle shaped rawhides. Regardless, never leave your dogs
unsupervised with a rawhide. Nylabones may be a good choice when no one is
around to supervise the dog. These plastic bones do not break and can not be
swallowed. Unfortunately, many dogs do not find the Nylabones especially tasty,
although recently, the manufacturer has developed a flavored Nylabone that
seems to be more appealing. You might also try to improve the flavor of a
Nylabone by soaking it in meat broth.

Understanding Your Dog's Chewing Problems


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Understanding Your Dog's Chewing Problems

Chewing is usually a developmental phase that puppies pass through to relieve
the itch and pain of cutting new teeth. The majority of dogs stop chewing
everything in sight once their new teeth are fully erupted, at about 9 months old.

The few dogs that do not cease chewing by age 1, either have acquired the habit
of chewing from boredom, anxiety, and frustration, or have acquired an unusual
gourmet appetite.

Regardless of the reason a dog chews, the behavior of chewing can be very expensive and very dangerous to the dog's physical well being. Correcting
chewing, or any other behavior problem, requires that someone be present to
catch the dog in the act. Showing the dog a shoe that was chewed several hours
earlier and yelling at him may make you feel better, but there is little chance that
he will connect the correction with the idea that chewing shoes is wrong.

An unsupervised puppy left to roam the house may develop a taste for dangerous
chew toys such as electrical cords, cleaning supplies, and other toxic items. The
landscaped yard filled with possibly toxic plants, or rocks and wood that can
obstruct the dog's intestines is a similarly dangerous environment for the
unsupervised puppy. Dogs that chew and swallow rocks or other sharp objects
often require costly and risky emergency surgery.
http://www.dog-bones.com/pics/photo/redecorate.jpg

To avoid mishaps when you cannot keep a watchful eye on the dog, confine him
in an area where only appropriate chew items such as dog toys, rawhides, or
knuckle bones are available. You must exercise caution in which chew toys are
left in the crate, because dogs have been reported to choke on some toys and
rawhides. If you confine your dog to a crate during unsupervised periods, you
don't have to worry about him chewing up prized possessions and furniture, or
doing himself harm. You may choose to dog proof the house by removing any
prize possessions until the dog has passed through the chewing stage.

Products such as Bitter Apple or Tabasco sauce may be sprayed on furniture and
possessions to keep the dog from chewing, but check for staining before using
them. Ninety-nine percent of the dogs find the taste of these products repulsive,
but a few dogs think they are a gourmet delight.

One product that may not be attractive to any dog is ammonia. Be careful not to
spray the ammonia when the dog is close by; it could damage his olfactory
system and eyes. Read the instructions carefully to determine what is safe to
spray on valuable possessions. Your dog should be well supplied with
acceptable chew items such as old socks, safe dog toys, rawhides, chew
hooves, and knuckle bones.

Only knuckle bones are safe; other bones will splinter and get caught in the dog's throat or intestines. If you are worried that your dog will not discriminate between an old chewable sock and a new sock, you may want to take time to play fetch with the dog and an old sock so the item
will become his favorite toy. The old sock will carry the scent of the dog, whereas
the new sock has your scent. The dog quickly learns the difference between the
socks when you praise him for playing with and chewing the old sock and
reprimand him for chewing on socks with your scent.

Car Chasing for a dog


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Car Chasing for a dog

Although very dangerous behavior, car chasing is very rewarding for the dog.
Dogs love to chase anything that runs, and the faster it runs, the better. To
extinguish the behavior, you must negate the reward of the chase. Car chasing
is most often done by dogs that have the run of the property and are not exposed
to many cars.

Expose the dog to traffic by making a point to walk on busy streets occasionally.
Command him to remain in a sit-stay as cars pass, and snap the collar back if he
attempts to move. You can set the dog up for a car chasing correction by having
a friend armed with several cans filled with rocks, for noise effect, drive up to or
past the area where the dog starts chasing. Instruct the helper to put on the
brakes as fast and noisily as possible when the dog is at a full chase. When the
car comes to a screeching halt, have the helper jump out of the car and create
enormous noise and chaos by throwing the cans near the dog.
http://i.pbase.com/o6/36/574136/1/86722102.54A4k65R.awoofer.jpg
If the dog is not likely to bite, have the helper aggressively chase him home,
throwing cans behind him. Repeat the setup with different cars, and if possible,
different people, until the dog refrains from chasing cars. You can also use the
corrections for car chasing when a dog acquires the nasty, dangerous habit of
chasing bikers, joggers, and horseback riders.

Digging Problems & Your Dog's Desire For Garbage


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Digging Problems & Your Dog's Desire For Garbage

To discourage garbage raiding, get a garbage can that has a locking lid. Or,
simply put the garbage can in a place your dog can't reach, like under the sink. If
you attempt to correct your dog when you catch him raiding the can, chances are
that all he will learn is to avoid going on a "garbage hunt" when you're around.
You'll essentially have created an owner absent garbage hound.

Your dog has lots of reasons to want to dig. Digging is fun and it relieves
boredom. To prevent unwanted digging, don't let your dog spend unsupervised
time in the yard. Go outside and watch him play or better yet, play with him.
http://ldc.upenn.edu/myl/llog/kwala-1a.jpg
If you don't want to ban digging, you can teach him that it isn't digging you hate,
just digging everywhere. So, choose one spot and designate it as his digging pit.
Think of it as his sandbox. Let him watch you bury a couple of tasty chew-toys.
Then encourage him to dig in that spot to get them out. Your dog will learn that
this is the best (and only) place for him to have his digging fun.

Thunder and Lightning - How To Help Your Dog's Storm Phobias


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How To Help Your Dog's Storm Phobias

Many dogs that fear storm activity also fear other sharp percussive noises, such
as gunfire, exploding balloons, or low frequency sounds from a sound system
capable of rattling the windows. Because storm noises originate outdoors, any
attempts to simulate storm noises or other loud sounds should originate there.
These can be tested and used with a routine which involves a single hand clap,
followed immediately by praise and introduction of some toy or other stimulus the
dog associated with happiness.

These staged performances should be repeated until the dog acts happy in
response to loud noises, without use of the above routine. After this stage, it is
still advisable to follow the same steps required for dogs that do not respond to
staged percussion. If gunfire is to be used in these sessions, the shells used
must be hand-loaded, low-powder blanks. The gun should be fired outdoors into
thick, soft material, such as an old pillow.

http://www.emergency.no/scared%20dog.jpg-for-web-normal.jpg

Only adults experienced with firearms should be involved. Also, neighbors should be forewarned of training sessions. If the dog does not respond to attempts at recreating storm sounds, the solution becomes more difficult, as one cannot conjure up storms at will. However, one
can watch the weather forecasts carefully and make preparations at least 3-4
hours before a storm is due.

This long lead time is necessary because many phobic dogs begin to show anxiety as falling barometric pressure indicates impending storms. In these situations, the training routine must be applied at the first sign of anxiety in the dog, and then reapplied until the dog shows upbeat
behavior instead of the former anxiety, without any need for the routine.

Sedatives: If the owner cannot be present to apply these procedures before and during storms, sedatives and tranquilizers may be used to reduce the dog's
anxiety. However, without behavioral therapy, such drugs have not been
effective over the long term.

Desensitizing With Sound and Light:

Though several authorities have recommended playing low-level thunder recordings and gradually increasing the volume as the dog accommodates to it, others in this field have not been
successful with this technique. For years trainers have tried using recordings of
thunder, coupled with flashing strobe lights, without success. This is probably
because of 2 factors unique to storms. First is the lack of barometric pressure
changes. Second is lack of the intense (to the dog) percussive effects of low-volume
thunder recordings.

How To Remain Safe around an aggressive dog


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How To Remain Safe & Calm Around Strange Or Aggressive Dogs

A knowledge of canine body language can protect you and your children around
strange or threatening dogs. If you understand how the animal will interpret your
body movements and facial expressions, you will know how to act in a
nonthreatening way and avoid a possible aggressive attack. Here are a few
rules to follow:

1. Never approach an unknown dog without first asking its owner if it's all right. If
the owner is not around, don't approach the dog.

2. Never run up to a dog, or make quick, jerky gestures toward it that might be
interpreted as a threat. Move slowly and deliberately.

3. Many people immediately squat down to be at a dog's eye level. Don't do this.
Staring into a strange dog's eyes may be considered a challenge by the dog; an
invitation to fight. If you get down low, you're telling the dog, "Look, I'm
submissive to you."

http://remedicated.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/06/mad-dog-bite-weird-home-remedies.jpg

4. When you meet a dog for the first time, make your hand into a loosely closed
fist, fingers down, and extend it slowly to allow the dog to sniff your knuckles.
Never put your open hand over the dog's head as if to pat it, because this is
interpreted as a threat by many dogs. If the dog is calm and friendly, you can
then turn your hand over, palm up, but continue to keep your fingers curled in
lightly; then you can gradually uncurl your fingers and let the animal nuzzle your
hand if it wants to.

5. If a strange dog approaches you, stay still. If you're standing, put your arms at
your sides. Don't raise your arms as the dog may think that you are threatening
it. If you're on the ground, lie face-down. Let the animal sniff at you - soon it will
lose interest and go away.

6. Adults should never snatch a small child away or up from a dog, because the
animal may then perceive the child as a toy; a stuffed animal to run and grab. If an adult calmly places herself between the child and the dog, the dog will
understand that she's being protective, and that's pack-related behavior.

7. Running away is interpreted by a dog as flight behavior and almost always
triggers an instinctive chase reaction in a dog, in which it sees you, the runner, as
potential prey. To sum up, stay calm and use common sense around any dog. It
will understand by your reactions and body language that you are not a threat
and will leave you alone.

Story behind the aggressive Dog


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Possible Origins of Aggression Within Dogs

Aggressive temperaments in canines are usually the result of both genetics and
the environment. A dog's environment can trigger aggressive behavior,
particularly if he has a propensity toward aggression. For instance, people often
blame a dog's aggression on being abused or teased by children. Fortunately, a
dog's environment can be modified to protect him from abuse and teasing.

You can and should insulate the dog's space from negative interactions and
incidents that might prompt aggression you cannot control. A chain link fence
does not adequately protect the dog when the owner is at work or away because
individuals or poorly supervised children may have access to him through the
fence. Leaving the dog inside the house or constructing a double fence or a run
far from the street fence are safer solutions.

Protecting a dog from the environment is his owner's responsibility.
Aggression may also be the result of an injury. An injured dog may not
understand the origin of the pain. As a result, he may snap at any object,
including a helpful hand, that approaches the injured site. .

http://www.l3outdoors.com/images/IMG_0003.jpg

In cases of extreme pain, the dog may even lunge at anyone walking close. No matter how gentle a dog's temperament is under normal circumstances, take precautions such as
using professional handling gloves, a muzzle, or at the least, wrap cloth around
your hands before touching an injured dog.

Females with litters will often exhibit aggressive behavior around their puppies.
Aggression associated with protecting the young is a natural behavior, and
correcting the bitch may produce unnecessary negative interactions. The
majority of bitches will allow trusted individuals to handle their puppies. Take
time to gain the trust of the bitch before attempting to handle her puppies.

Many
bites are the result of an unsuspecting passerby or visitor invading the dog's
perceived territory. No one should walk into another person's (dog's) yard or
house uninvited, and certainly the house or yard should not be left open for
people to enter.

High fences can prevent children from scaling them to retrieve lost balls, and
security locks on gates are good deterrents for the average person. Even the
mildest mannered dog may feel threatened by people walking in or invading his
territory, especially when no one is home.

Then again, there may be no apparent provocation for the dog to bite. This type of attack is known as rage syndrome or idiopathic aggression, and it is very dangerous. When a dog bites for no apparent reason, the victim is least able to avoid the bite.

There may be no cues to indicate an impending attack. This type of aggression has been associatedwith a few specific breeds, but there have been reports of unprovoked attacks in
many breeds.

Avoid your Dog from Stealing Food & Your Personal Items


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Avoid your Dog from Stealing Food & Your Personal Items

Dogs steal food for obvious reasons. The problem is easily managed by keeping
food items out of reach. Stealing other items, however, is a more complex
problem and requires more extensive investigation before correction is
attempted.

Your Food
Stealing food is simply eating that which is appealing. In most problem cases,
the pet has been given food items in certain situations, and expected to ignore
the same food at other times, or a naive dog has the opportunity to take food
when the owner is not present. The simplest approach to correcting a food
stealing problem is the realistic approach.

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This requires that the owner take
special and basically sensible measures to deprive the pet of the opportunity to
steal food. It also avoids the need for punishment or the more sophisticated and
time consuming methods used with puppies.

The puppy training methods may be tried if the owner wants to make the
sacrifice, but only in conjunction with the standard rule, "Never leave food within
the dog's reach."